Happy Bogucki …

I know, I know. I said goodbye and I’m still here. Don’t you hate that. This post was in the works. I didn’t think I’d have it ready but I’ve worked deep into the night. So here it is. Goodbye. I’m off to the KImberley.

The story begins in July 1999 when some 4WD’ers found a bicycle and some camping gear on a lonely sandy track in the Great Sandy Desert.

Once the first mystery was solved a search began for one Robert Bugucki, a fire fighter from Alaska who had set out to cycle across the Great Sandy from the Sandfire Roadhouse to the small town of Fitzroy Crossing. There is a bitumen road from one to the other. It takes a gentle curve around the desert. Google suggests 35 hours of peddling time should do the trick. However our Robert had chosen the short cut. 500 km as the crow flies, nothing but desert in between. What could possibly go wrong?

Broome police began a search. The initial finds were made about 50 km east of the highway. With the aid of Aboriginal trackers they covered another 150 km before their 4WD vehicles could go no further. The search continued from helicopter. And was then abandoned. Mr Bogucki’s girlfriend was said to have told the police that he may have been hiding from them in order to extend his time in the wilderness for spiritual reasons. He was a very religious man.

At that point Mr Bogucki’s future depended on accurate navigation, stamina and his ability to find water.

Mr B’s parents thought more should be done and commissioned the 1st Special Response Group founded and headed by Vietnam and Gulf War veteran Garrison “Gunslinger” St. Clair. They flew in from the USA and talked up a brand new Desert Storm. Don’t misunderstand me, some of my best friends are American but …

The circus had come to town. The chain smoking (cigars, of course) fast talking St. Clair and his team plus bloodhounds (with little boots to protect their feet from the spinifex) got to work … and saved the day. Without ever finding anything. “We are from America and have come to show you how it’s done” didn’t go down all that well. Channel 9 News sent a crew to cover the search. I suspect largely to document the debacle and make sure that St. Clair’s failure occurred in the glare of a good Aussie spotlight. As the Aussies said in WWll “Over paid, over sexed and over here”. Friendly rivalry.

This seems like the right moment to insert the fact that in reality St. Clair had no military record whatsoever but had done time in the States for fraud. When that news broke Gunslinger countered that when you were involved in black ops the records were concealed. He was happy with who he was. But perhaps unhappy that his criminal record hadn’t been sufficiently concealed.

The Nine Network crew chartered a helicopter and headed to the 1st Special Response Group’s camp in the desert. On the way there the pilot spotted a blue bed roll in the scrub, landed and found with it a bible and some hand written notes. This news was radioed to the searchers who headed across country to the helo and confirmed that it all belonged to the missing man.

The News crew prepared to head back to Broome to get the news of their discovery out to the world. St. Clair readied his bloodhounds. On the flight back to Broome, however, the pilot saw Mr Bogucki himself in the scrub, landed and after the filming and interview was finished – a scoop is a scoop – flew him back to civilisation.

Robert Bogucki had spent 43 days and 42 nights in the wilderness, had found water – he was clutching some muddy liquid when discovered – had lost a lot of weight and was lucid. He was at least 200km from his destination. Indeed he was at least 200km from the bitumen in any direction he might choose. He would surely have died a very lonely death had he not been found. Instead he made a complete recovery. All thanks to a sharp-eyed helicopter pilot named Andrew Beaumont flying a routine charter.

I haven’t been able to find exactly where Robert Bogucki was located but it was, I know, close to the gorge that I recently visited. Very tough country to walk in.

Welcome to the Outback …

When I write about interesting places and I’m diligent in getting the posts up regularly my readership grows. If you’re new to these pages welcome, to my regulars welcome back. In either case thank you for coming.

I live in Broome. Top left hand side of the map of Oz. Many non Australians think that Australia is permanently hot and sunny. Broome is exactly that. Except when it’s pouring with rain. That happens in our summer … Occasionally.

About 15,000 people live here and we get plenty of visitors in winter because the truth is that Australia’s climate in more southerly regions is not warm and sunny all year round. Our tourists have barely thawed out by the time they get off the plane. We are about 10 days past the winter solstice. Today’s forecast maximum is 31°C (88°F) tonight’s minimum 16°C (60°F). It’s not going to rain.

There is just one road from Broome to the rest of Australia. About 35 km out it branches. Turn right for Perth, straight on for Darwin. Turn right and you’re heading south, the next town is Port Hedland, similar population, 610 km! Two road houses in between, negligible population. If you go straight on i.e. north-east you won’t get to a town as large as little old Broome until you get to Darwin, 1,871 km away. In between there are a few little towns that would struggle to qualify as hamlets elsewhere.

Why so few people? Because the country up here is permanently hot and sunny. Except when it’s pouring with rain. That happens in our summer … Occasionally. It’s a desert. Annual rainfall less than 250mm. Annual evaporation would be 3 to 4 meters if there were 3 to 4 meters available!

There are apparently ten deserts in Australia although I am unsure how they decide where one ends and another starts. The local desert is the Great Sandy Desert, a testament to the imagination of our forefathers (and yes, there is a Little Sandy Desert, you’ll recognise it when you see it. It’s only half the size. Also a Stony Desert). The Great Sandy (267,250sq.km) is our second largest (to the Great Victoria at 348,750sq.km).

About 200 km from home via a very lonely sandy track there is a gorge that I have been meaning to visit. I went out there for a couple of nights last week, camped alone, in the spinifex, under the stars on the lip of the canyon. Very biblical, only 38 more nights to go. Can they be served cumulatively or do they have to be accrued in one go?

Broome is the administrative capital of the Kimberley region (which is northeast of here before you get to Darwin). In my view it ain’t really the Kimberly until you get among the Boab trees (not just street plantings, real Boabs). Anyway, that’s where I’m going. If I get the chance to post along the way I might drop in a teaser otherwise I’ll subject you all to the photos when I get back in a couple of weeks. Ciao for now.

Like Bogart & Hepburn …

The African Queen, what a classic, was shot on the Nile in Uganda and the Congo. I’ve been on both rivers but never felt more like Charlie Allnut than on the Zambezi in a boat like this …

The Zambezi is the fourth longest river in Africa draining slightly less than half the area that the Nile draws from. Its source is in Zambia, it flows through Angola, is the boundary of Namibia, Botswana, Zambia and Zimbabwe before traversing Mozambique to the Indian Ocean. Its most notable feature is the spectacular Victoria Falls. The Kariba dam is a major hydro plant providing electricity to Zambia and Zimbabwe. Frequent rapids prevent it being a major transport route.

It was a very pleasant afternoon cruise. Even more enjoyable because our skipper was into the birds. He made a point of finding us Finfoot and White-crowned Lapwing, two of the local specialities.

Zimbabwe …

We flew from Chitabe Lediba to Kasane in the far north-east of Botswana, transferred to a small bus and headed for the border. Our destination was the magnificent old colonial style Victoria Falls Hotel.

At breakfast the next morning we got our first glimpse of Vic Falls, or at least the spray …

That’s not cloud, it’s not smoke, it’s airborne water that supports a little rain forest in what is an otherwise quite arid landscape.

I first visited the Falls in 2014. You can read all about it <HERE> and <HERE> and, of course, there are some photos. The price of admission has gone up. The standard of living of the locals hasn’t. Plenty of water was going over the falls. The assertion that they were easier to photograph when the flow was less proved true. A few of the birds posed nicely.

The Tale of the Warthog’s Tail …

On the day that God made the Warthog there was a shortage of skin. As a result the body of the Warthog is a very tight fit. When it runs through the grass it closes its eyes to keep the seeds out. So tight is its skin that just closing its eyes is enough to make its tail stand up.

There are other tales to explain why it feeds on its knees and why its hair is so patchy. It seems to be a popular figure in African folklore.

Owl …

One of our local driver/guides found us a large owl, Verreaux’s Eagle-Owl. He recalled that as a child the call of the owl would strike fear in his heart and send him running home. To his family the owl was a bad omen. For other African people it was the wise owl or even the nocturnal protector of the village.

In the fairy tales I grew up with the owl was wise but in European folklore it has also figured as the harbinger of death, an associate of witches or the protector of barns from lightning although to fulfill that duty it first had to be nailed to the barn door.

The Dutch painter Hieronymus Bosch ((c. 1450 – 1516) depicted owls in many of his works. He was either a deeply religious man seeking to demonstrate the dreadfulness of sin (the orthodox view) or someone who’d found a neat loophole in the censorship laws. He may have seen owls as wise in that knowing too much, cynical sort of way, having eaten from the tree of knowledge etc or he just had a fetish. A detail from The Garden of Earthly Delights

Verreaux of the Eagle-Owl and also the Eagle, Coua and Sifaca (and also celebrated in the scientific names of a dove, a parrotbill, a skink, a gecko and an eel) is Jules Pierre Verreaux (1807 – 1873) a French botanist, ornithologist and professional collector and trader in natural history specimens. He earns a mention in the Biographical Notes of the Australian National Herbarium for his plant collecting activities in New South Wales and Tasmania. They don’t go into much detail about his exploits in Africa.

Whilst in Botswana in 1830 Verreaux observed the burial of a Tswana Warrior. He returned that night , dug up the corpse, took the skin, skull and a few other bones, crated it all up with a few other specimens and sent them off to Paris. I wonder if the owl was part of the same shipment.

Balancing Act …

A national government has the responsibility for making the most of a country’s resources and sharing the benefits among its peoples. In Zimbabwe during the Mugarbage era the national wealth went down whilst the personal wealth of Mugabe and his cronies went up. A kleptocracy working just the way its rulers wanted. Across the border in Botswana things seem to have gone very much better. Botswana is considered the least corrupt country in Africa, the economy is growing healthily and per capita purchasing power is above the world average.

Botswana is essentially a dry country but with a water supply from beyond its borders. The Kalahari Desert is in the centre and south west, The Okavango Delta is in the northwest. The country is about the same size as France.

The population is about 2.7 million people, population density being 5 people per Km2. They are not evenly spread, about 69% live in a town, the largest being Gaborone, the capital in the southeast of the country, with a population of a little over 208,000. The population of Botswana is slowly increasing.

Diamond mining is the mainstay of Botswana’s economy, about half of government revenue comes from diamonds. A lot of pretty eggs, one basket. Tourism, number two in importance, accounts for a little over 10% of GDP. A large proportion of the rural population depend on subsistence cropping and cattle farming.

The tourists go mainly to the Delta because it’s beautiful, wildlife is abundant and the facilities are first class. Flying in adds to the sense of space and wilderness as does the absence of power lines and fences. The set up depends on concessions. The Government holds on to the dirt. Business leases the opportunity to build and run lodges. Do a good job, upgrade facilities and you may be granted the opportunity to renew when the lease runs out.

A World Bank Technical Report, An introduction to tourism concessioning: 14 characteristics of successful programs cites as an example …

Okavango Wilderness Safaris has a concession for Mombo Camp in Moremi Game Reserve, in the heart of the Okavango Delta World Heritage Site.

The lodge is highly profitable, achieving an average occupancy of 70% between 2009 and 2013, with a rack rate of US$2,413 per person, per night in the high season. During this period, the lease fees and taxes paid generated US$6 million to government, and over US$3.7 million was spent on staff costs (of whom 75% are local Batswana).”

Kudos to the government. So why is this post entitled Balancing Act? In part because of the fences that you didn’t see. Cattle was culturally and economically numero uno prior to diamonds and tourists and it still is to the rural population. The market for beef is the EU. To satisfy the EU on health grounds Botswana has to keep the cattle and the wildlife apart especially the buffalo. That means Veterinary Fences. Over 10,000km of veterinary fences. Namibia next door to the west also has its share of veterinary fences. The fences cut migration routes that have existed for millennia. Water floods into the Delta in the dry season. Animals migrate to the periphery in search of pasture. As the land dries out they move back into the heart of the Delta. Unless they died against the fences.

Over all wildlife numbers have declined since the first fence was erected in 1958. On the other side of the coin, if the fences come down will the cattle move in, elephants and buffalo move out, conflict with farmers increase?

What about the water? The rain falls in Angola. They have first dibs. If it leaves there it has to cross the Caprivi Strip of Namibia, a colonial oddity that enabled the German overlords access to the Zambese. If it is diverted there to the extent that there is too little to flood the Delta then the Kalahari increases in size and the Delta dies.

And power! Botswana purchases electricity from South Africa and presently all they have to sell is rolling blackouts. That is an issue that the government of Botswana has already begun to address.

Botswana has done a great job. They need to keep it up. There’s a tricky road ahead.

What About Your Phone …

I have heard it argued that the best camera is the one you have with you. Your phone is always handy. The photograph you take is always superior to the one you didn’t take. I have a friend who has an excellent eye for composition who has embraced this absolutely and doesn’t own a real camera. His instagram page has some very nice photographs of fungi. And, not only fungi … but well … mainly fungi.

If you use your photos on social media the image quality is good enough most of the time and getting better. I use my phone sometimes (more often to take photos than to make phone calls in fact) and I have published some of them on this blog. It’s a Samsung. It does an OK job of macro (flowers, corals, dinosaur footprints. Not insects) and a pretty good daytime landscape. It fills in the short end when I’m wandering far and wide with a bloody great telephoto. It wouldn’t meet my requirements for night photography or for birds.

Could you take a phone as your safari camera? Professor Mo (Honeybadger) Donelly did and was kind enough to share. These are some of her photos (all rights reserved) …

These are nice photos, certainly good enough when they pop up in her Facebook feed next year to bring back a flood of good memories. They were shot on an iPhone 13 pro.