Happy Bogucki …

I know, I know. I said goodbye and I’m still here. Don’t you hate that. This post was in the works. I didn’t think I’d have it ready but I’ve worked deep into the night. So here it is. Goodbye. I’m off to the KImberley.

The story begins in July 1999 when some 4WD’ers found a bicycle and some camping gear on a lonely sandy track in the Great Sandy Desert.

Once the first mystery was solved a search began for one Robert Bugucki, a fire fighter from Alaska who had set out to cycle across the Great Sandy from the Sandfire Roadhouse to the small town of Fitzroy Crossing. There is a bitumen road from one to the other. It takes a gentle curve around the desert. Google suggests 35 hours of peddling time should do the trick. However our Robert had chosen the short cut. 500 km as the crow flies, nothing but desert in between. What could possibly go wrong?

Broome police began a search. The initial finds were made about 50 km east of the highway. With the aid of Aboriginal trackers they covered another 150 km before their 4WD vehicles could go no further. The search continued from helicopter. And was then abandoned. Mr Bogucki’s girlfriend was said to have told the police that he may have been hiding from them in order to extend his time in the wilderness for spiritual reasons. He was a very religious man.

At that point Mr Bogucki’s future depended on accurate navigation, stamina and his ability to find water.

Mr B’s parents thought more should be done and commissioned the 1st Special Response Group founded and headed by Vietnam and Gulf War veteran Garrison “Gunslinger” St. Clair. They flew in from the USA and talked up a brand new Desert Storm. Don’t misunderstand me, some of my best friends are American but …

The circus had come to town. The chain smoking (cigars, of course) fast talking St. Clair and his team plus bloodhounds (with little boots to protect their feet from the spinifex) got to work … and saved the day. Without ever finding anything. “We are from America and have come to show you how it’s done” didn’t go down all that well. Channel 9 News sent a crew to cover the search. I suspect largely to document the debacle and make sure that St. Clair’s failure occurred in the glare of a good Aussie spotlight. As the Aussies said in WWll “Over paid, over sexed and over here”. Friendly rivalry.

This seems like the right moment to insert the fact that in reality St. Clair had no military record whatsoever but had done time in the States for fraud. When that news broke Gunslinger countered that when you were involved in black ops the records were concealed. He was happy with who he was. But perhaps unhappy that his criminal record hadn’t been sufficiently concealed.

The Nine Network crew chartered a helicopter and headed to the 1st Special Response Group’s camp in the desert. On the way there the pilot spotted a blue bed roll in the scrub, landed and found with it a bible and some hand written notes. This news was radioed to the searchers who headed across country to the helo and confirmed that it all belonged to the missing man.

The News crew prepared to head back to Broome to get the news of their discovery out to the world. St. Clair readied his bloodhounds. On the flight back to Broome, however, the pilot saw Mr Bogucki himself in the scrub, landed and after the filming and interview was finished – a scoop is a scoop – flew him back to civilisation.

Robert Bogucki had spent 43 days and 42 nights in the wilderness, had found water – he was clutching some muddy liquid when discovered – had lost a lot of weight and was lucid. He was at least 200km from his destination. Indeed he was at least 200km from the bitumen in any direction he might choose. He would surely have died a very lonely death had he not been found. Instead he made a complete recovery. All thanks to a sharp-eyed helicopter pilot named Andrew Beaumont flying a routine charter.

I haven’t been able to find exactly where Robert Bogucki was located but it was, I know, close to the gorge that I recently visited. Very tough country to walk in.

Welcome to the Outback …

When I write about interesting places and I’m diligent in getting the posts up regularly my readership grows. If you’re new to these pages welcome, to my regulars welcome back. In either case thank you for coming.

I live in Broome. Top left hand side of the map of Oz. Many non Australians think that Australia is permanently hot and sunny. Broome is exactly that. Except when it’s pouring with rain. That happens in our summer … Occasionally.

About 15,000 people live here and we get plenty of visitors in winter because the truth is that Australia’s climate in more southerly regions is not warm and sunny all year round. Our tourists have barely thawed out by the time they get off the plane. We are about 10 days past the winter solstice. Today’s forecast maximum is 31°C (88°F) tonight’s minimum 16°C (60°F). It’s not going to rain.

There is just one road from Broome to the rest of Australia. About 35 km out it branches. Turn right for Perth, straight on for Darwin. Turn right and you’re heading south, the next town is Port Hedland, similar population, 610 km! Two road houses in between, negligible population. If you go straight on i.e. north-east you won’t get to a town as large as little old Broome until you get to Darwin, 1,871 km away. In between there are a few little towns that would struggle to qualify as hamlets elsewhere.

Why so few people? Because the country up here is permanently hot and sunny. Except when it’s pouring with rain. That happens in our summer … Occasionally. It’s a desert. Annual rainfall less than 250mm. Annual evaporation would be 3 to 4 meters if there were 3 to 4 meters available!

There are apparently ten deserts in Australia although I am unsure how they decide where one ends and another starts. The local desert is the Great Sandy Desert, a testament to the imagination of our forefathers (and yes, there is a Little Sandy Desert, you’ll recognise it when you see it. It’s only half the size. Also a Stony Desert). The Great Sandy (267,250sq.km) is our second largest (to the Great Victoria at 348,750sq.km).

About 200 km from home via a very lonely sandy track there is a gorge that I have been meaning to visit. I went out there for a couple of nights last week, camped alone, in the spinifex, under the stars on the lip of the canyon. Very biblical, only 38 more nights to go. Can they be served cumulatively or do they have to be accrued in one go?

Broome is the administrative capital of the Kimberley region (which is northeast of here before you get to Darwin). In my view it ain’t really the Kimberly until you get among the Boab trees (not just street plantings, real Boabs). Anyway, that’s where I’m going. If I get the chance to post along the way I might drop in a teaser otherwise I’ll subject you all to the photos when I get back in a couple of weeks. Ciao for now.