No way. We’ve hardly started …





But eventually you start to see birds that are harder to find in Victoria …

and pray that there's intelligent life somewhere out in space
Was named in honour of Captain James Cook, the explorer who put the east coast of the great southern continent on the map. He was by no means the first European to visit Australia. That honour goes to one Willem Janszoon on the good ship Duyfken in 1606. More of him a little later.
The Dutch had mapped the west coast of Oz pretty thoroughly over the course of a century starting with Dirk Hartog in 1616. Abel Tasman put the southerly limit on the continent with the discovery of Van Dieman’s Land in 1642.
The first Brit to hit the shore was John Brookes who wrecked the Tryall off the WA coast in 1622. Survivors spent a week on the Monte Bello Islands. William Dampier made a far more successful visit in 1699 discovering an excellent site for a bird observatory.
Turn the clock forward to 1770. After making a thorough survey of New Zealand Cook sailed west heading for Van Diemen’s Land the next known spot in the ocean. The weather caused him to take a more northerly route and on 19th April 1770 Lieutenant Zachary Hicks, a Stepney lad, spotted the east coast of Victoria. Like a lot of Victorians since our James then headed north to Queensland. No landings were made in Victoria and only one in New South Wales, at Botany Bay (29th April).
Once in the future Queensland’s waters Cook made 13 more landings. None more important to the success of the voyage than the one at the mouth of the Endeavour River.
On June the 11th Endeavour struck a reef. It took 23 hours to get her off and she was badly holed in the process. A desperate bout of pumping followed until the inflow of water was reduced by passing a sail under the ship’s belly a process known as fothering. The ship could then be kept afloat by use of a single pump until a suitable landing site could be found. On the 17th the ship was beached at the mouth of the Endeavour River. Repairs took 7 weeks.
Relations with the locals were mainly good perhaps because Cook had unwittingly chosen to camp at a traditional meeting place where custom forbade the shedding of blood. Some aboriginal words and names were recorded for posterity. The word kangaroo was borrowed from the Guugu Yimithirr language. Subsequent scholarship has disproved the furphy that it meant “buggered if I know” and suggests that it was the name of a particular species of macropod.
One kangaroo had the misfortune to be shot. It was sketched by Sydney Parkinson then eaten by the officers and gentlemen. That sketch may have been the model for a painting by George Stubbs that was itself the source material for an engraving that appeared in John Hawkesworth’s 1773 book describing the voyage.

Cook and Banks are often credited with being the first to describe a macropod forgetting that Western Australia had been on the map for about 150 years at that time. The honour should go to Francois Pelsaert who described a wallaby from the other side of the continent in 1629.
Returning as promised to Willem Janszoon. In 1606 he sailed eastward in the Arafura Sea and bumped into land that he thought was a southerly extension of New Guinea. It was in fact the west coast of the Cape York Peninsula in the vicinity of present day Weipa. He then sailed south in the Gulf of Carpentaria charting the coast as far as Cape Keerweer. When Cook was at Cooktown he was just 437km as the crow flies from Cape Keerweer and 164 years too late to be the first European to visit Cape York.
Cooktown, Queensland …

It was a roundabout route, partly to avoid bad weather, partly for the hell of it.
How bad was the weather? Well here’s a river crossing we decided against …

Thirty three days covering 5 801km in slightly different style than the last grand road trip.

But the cast of characters remains the same.
Along the way we’ve caught up with some lovely people, old friends and new. We’ve also racked up a bird list of 217 species some of which posed for a photo …

More to come.
Have you ever been self conscious in lycra? Click the link and you will be cured.
She has been ranked number one as a doubles player and as high as 14 as a doubles player. She’s not at the Australian Open so it seems a very interesting question. Especially since she has accused China’s former Vice-Premier Zhang Gaoli of sexual misconduct.
Don’t ask the question at the tournament. If you turn up in a “Where’s Peng Shuai” T-shirt Tennis Australia will ask you to take it off.
Controversy on controversy, The Djokovic saga could easily have been avoided if Tennis Australia had said that players had to be vaccinated to play. No fuss, no ambiguity. The notion that professional sports people are so medically compromised that they are unfit for vaccination beggars belief. Instead they chose to look for loopholes. Advised that historic infection would not fit the bill did Tennis Australia suggest “No worries, Novak, just catch it again”?
Looking for Peng Shuai at the open is going to be as successful as looking for any sign of intelligence in the leadership of Tennis Australia.
Over the years this blog has largely been driven along by travel and travel photography. The last couple of years has seen that shrivel because of our great pandemic. The blog has shriveled along with it. There is a limit to how many times you can spin a tale out of spending your two hours outdoor exercise riding your bike in circles. For the moment though country Victoria is off the leash – Victoria is my oyster, can’t leave the state, can’t visit Melbourne. The pearl in my little oyster is Port Fairy and that’s where I am.
I have been riding my bike in circles but at least the circle is a big one. What more could a girl ask for? I like to call the route L’Étape Charles de Gaulle …

My accommodation here is built from bluestone which is basalt from the Newer Volcanic Province. Port Fairy’s basalt was donated by Mount Rouse 60km to the north. It seems a long way for the lava to flow. Perhaps it could have got further but sizzled to a stop in the sea. There is a closer but older volcano at Tower Hill which I have written about previously <HERE>. Rather than slowly boiling over it went off with a phreatic bang.
Hopkins Falls is about 40km east of Fairy and is another side effect of the newer volcanics. Said to be the widest waterfall in Australia at 90 meters in width it drops about 12 meters off a basalt shelf. It’s been a fairly wet winter. It’s quite a satisfying sight at present …


What’s next?
What about something very similar – Amy’s Gran Fondo on Sunday October 24 starting and finishing at Lorne. It’s a 130km course climbing over some now familiar hills and then running along the Great Ocean Road.


There’s a gravel ride the day before and a couple of shorter rides for the less obsessed. All the details can be found <HERE>
You can join me there. Sign up now.
… worthy of a spectacular ride. The Great Ocean Road and Otway hills – all the ingredients needed. The 204km ride got away at 6.30 in the morning …

Most of the first 80km or so is through undulating farmland. There was a decent headwind. Fortunately I was able to pick up a strong group and slipstream all the way to Forrest. Thanks are due to the heroes that took the lead. Average speed to Forrest was 31kph – no concern regarding the cutoff.
The climbing starts in earnest just before Forrest. My group took advantage of the rest stop there, I soloed on. Either the food was good or there was a long queue for the toilets. I didn’t see them again. In fact by that time you couldn’t see much at all. A mist had rolled in bringing a gentle drizzle.
Climbing is not my strong point. I just have to accept that it will be slow, settle into a rhythm and keep an eye on the power meter. The reward is that you then get to descend. This time the road was wet and windy but it’s still fun.


The foot of the descent is Skenes Creek on the iconic Great Ocean Road. The rain ceased and the wind dropped. Groups to parasitise became rare. So head down and tail up …

Time for another challenge, the Great Ocean & Otways ride beckons. It sets off from Torquay in Victoria, takes an inland route west before climbing over the Otway Range and returning via the iconic Great Ocean Road. It’s but a week away – Saturday 24th April 2021.

There is a ‘free’ jersey included. I liked the one for the 204km ride best so I have opted for the epic ride. They have already sent me the jersey so perhaps I’ll just stay home!

This course is also known as Amy’s Ride, named for Amy Gillett. She represented Australia in both Rowing and Cycling. She was killed in a collision with a car while training with the Australian cycling team in Germany in 2005. The Amy Gillet Foundation aims to make riding in Australia a safer activity. You can donate <HERE> if you wish.
The course is a little shorter than the Peaks Challenge and there is only half the climbing to be done. To make up for that they have been far more stingy with the time. The turn for home occurs at Skenes Creek about 120 km into the ride. By then most of the climbing is behind you. To make the cut-off that has to be completed at 23.6kph. A strong westerly wind would make that a fairly demanding effort. I will be looking to hide in a bunch wherever I can.
Along the Great Ocean Road the scenery will be fantastic but I doubt that will be what I spend most of my time thinking about. It’s not all flat. There are some nasty lumps to get over especially at Aireys Inlet and at Anglesea.
If I finish without being kicked off the course I will think it a day well spent. If the weather is nice, mechanical misadventure is avoided and I can hide in a decent bunch from time to time I should do it OK. Let’s make it interesting by setting a target of 7 hours 45 minutes.
Entries are still open <HERE>. I look forward to seeing you at the start.