We stayed a second night at Miner’s Pool in order to take an early morning flight over the Mitchell Plateau that we were originally intending to drive to.
Slingair operate flights from Drysdale River Station that follow a triangular path out to the mouth of the Prince Regent River then up the coast, over the Mitchell Falls and back over more of the million square acres of the station to the starting point. The plane they use is the Gippsland Airvan, made in Victoria, it is terrific for sight-seeing because of the high wing, large windows and seat arrangement. Well worth the cost …
Our original Kimberley itinerary provided for a visit to both the well-known sites for Black Grasswren, Bachsten Gorge and the Mitchell Plateau. We were a day late arriving at Bachsten, we were having so much fun there that we stayed a day longer than intended and we decided that the journey out should be taken at a more sedate pace than originally intended. We decided that the Mitchell Plateau would have to wait for another trip.
Our next stop was Drysdale River Station. There is a full facility camp site at the homestead, full of people. We camped two nights at Miner’s Pool, less than 5km away, where we had to share with just a couple of other parties.
It’s a beautiful spot, and we were pleased to find a couple of spectacular birds there, the Purple-crowned Fairywren and the Black-necked Stork. The Fairywren lives in waterside pandanus and the females are just as beautiful as the males, in their own understated way. The Storks are not particularly rare in tropical Australia but always great to see.
If I seem to have neglected matters political this past little while the reason is quite simple, I’m lost for words.
Half the previous government has headed for the back benches and will not contest the next election. Not long ago I heard Mr Conroy referred to as a senior minister, an illustration of what little talent was available … then. How little is left!
The new treasurer, what’s his name, oh Mr Bowen, has said the economy needs careful management in the next few years and for some unfathomable reason thinks Labor should be entrusted with the task.
So, we have a talent free, policy mystery government under the rule of a former failure who his own colleagues think is disfunctional if not certifiably mad.
If we share the stories of our country with gudia (whitefella), then they will have our country in their hearts as we do, and they will understand and love it, and never damage it.
David Bungal Mowaljarlai OAM (c.1926–1997).
Before leaving Bachsten Gorge we took the time to explore some of the sandstone outcrops and natural shelters. We followed in the footsteps of many people over many thousands of years. We were fortunate enough to find some paintings on the shelter walls. Just as Mr Mowaljarlai suspected we would, we admired and respected what we saw. Since a picture is worth a thousand words, a few examples …
And lastly a photo taken from within a rock shelter …
If you are interested in this art there is an excellent webpage <HERE>.
With the Black Grasswren ticked our thoughts turned to the other attractions the neighbourhood had to offer.
In the Kimberley, sandstone plus water usually adds up to a gorge and in this instance an impressive waterfall. We first hiked down to the falls and had a look off, then climbed up to a vantage point from where we had a great view of the falls and pools from above. The great advantage of getting there early in the dry was that the scene was at its best.
Tranquility above the fallsBachsten Falls
And beauty, not only on the grand scale, but at every scale …
The McGee Australian birdlist now stands at 715. It calls for a drink.
Buying take away alcohol poses a few problems for the traveller in the Northern two thirds of Australia. This is because some of the residents of this region have a major alcohol problem. If you are interested in the topic <THIS ARTICLE> is a good starting point. Just to complicate matters three different states have different rules and there are numerous local variations. So in Alice Springs, NT, you will not be able to buy take away alcohol before 2 pm, and you will have to ask for methylated spirits in the camping store, it ain’t on the shelves. In Mount Isa, Qld, your take out must go in your car, pedestrians may not buy alcohol to go. In Halls Creek, WA, the strongest you can buy is light beer. You cannot buy take away alcohol along the Gibb river Road full stop.
Having stocked up on just enough to see you through your journey you may reach the boundary of an area where alcohol is banned completely. Penalties for breaching the rules vary from state to state but are severe, fines of $30,000+, seizure of vehicle or boat and prison are all on the cards.
Fortunately McGee was well provided for. Indeed, earlier at Mt. Barnett whilst buying diesel, there had been a few cans and a bottle of wine in plain sight on the back seat. A rather attractive lady asked me, “Would you trade alcohol for sex?”
Even though I had sufficient I couldn’t resist asking, “What sort of alcohol are you offering?”
Got it. First a call, then a fleeting glimpse of two birds up hill of us on top of a blackened sandstone boulder. We wait in the hope of a second look but a couple of minutes pass with no success. We creep up to a spot where we can look down on the boulder. Gone.
A few moments later the whole party can be seen travelling fairly quickly across country about a hundred metres up hill. Hoping that they would be consistent in their direction of travel we hiked hard to intercept them at a rocky knob on the skyline. We got there just in time to enjoy very brief close views as they went one by one over the crest of the hill.
This is, of course where I would put my photograph, but on this and subsequent contacts they were just too active to get them in the open and in focus. I hope Drew Fulton will forgive me using this superb photo of his …
This is a male, the girls have chestnut bellies. They are bigger than I expected, certainly bigger than the majority of Grasswrens and superbly coloured to fit into their environment. Picture it, open woodland with spinifex between the trees, broken by large sandstone boulders ranging from red to black, harsh shadows cast by the tropical sun, the grasswrens on the move, bold, active and beautiful.
We were the third group to make it through to the camp at Bachsten Gorge for the season and the third group to require Rick’s assistance. He was considering closing the road until the water levels had gone down a bit. At that evening’s radio call he suggested that the Station ensure that people came up in groups. That was enough to deter any more visitors for a few days! Being bogged can be hazardous.
The camp has cabins, un-powered and powered camping sites. The generator runs late afternoon until evening. Showers were available any time, from 5 pm they were heated by a wood fire. Hospitality ran hot all the time, Rick and Anne are very lovely people.
The Black Grasswren requires large sandstone boulders and spinifex. We wasted no time looking but drew a blank.
That evening, though brought an abundance of wildlife in the form of Northern Quoll, Golden-backed Tree-Rat, Northern Brown Bandicoot, Monjon, Sugar Glider and Dingo …
Heaven is a warm shower, a cold beer, a Northern Quoll and a Black Grasswren. I was almost in heaven …
Faint-hearted we were not, adequately prepared was another story.
We set off early from Turkey Creek and made good progress to about 35 km from the gorge. At Filter Creek the crossing proved difficult. A fallen log in the stream constrained every vehicle to the same path. The wheel ruts had become rather deep, too deep for our stock standard Prado. We bottomed out and stuck fast. We were in a convoy of one with no winch. The jacking points were not only under water, they were in contact with the stream bed. Attempts to feed logs under the wheels were predictably futile. Self rescue was not going to happen.
At 10am we put the satellite phone to use and rang Mount Elizabeth Station. They would inform the camp at the gorge in the next radio conversation. Because of limited power at the gorge there are two radio calls each day … the next would be at 5 pm. Rescue would not happen that day unless someone came up from behind, the station were not aware of anyone likely to do that. Would we please ring back at 5.30 pm.
We went bird watching then set up our tents. We had food for ten days and, as for water, our car was up to its doors in the stuff. No worries.
We called again at 5.30. They’d forgotten us. Not to worry, there would be another radio call at 6 next morning.
Gayle retrieves the evening meal.
The following morning we were not forgotten. Rick would come from the camp and tow us out. He’d be there at 10 am. He was early. Our rescue was quickly executed. Rick then turned his attention to the offending log and carried out some deft underwater chain sawing. The rescued party meanwhile set about digging away some of the bank so that the crossing could be moved upstream enough to make our return journey easier.
The last 35 km took another couple of hours and involved a few more creek crossings and the passage of a particularly viscous bog.
But we got there, could we now find the elusive Black Grasswren?
bobmcgee 