Of all the gin joints …

I have always been a sucker for books. Sadly, good bookshops are a dying breed but here in Broome we have one. A shout out to the Kimberley Bookshop where the lovely Gayle and I were shopping for local history and natural history books. In the bird section we know many of the authors personally, the world of truly obsessed birdos is relatively small. There’s probably not enough of us to keep more than a couple of psychiatrists in business. I turned to remark on this when I saw a name on a different shelf that came as a complete surprise.

Let me take you back 50 years. I was a junior House Officer employed by the United Sheffield Hospitals. The ink was still wet on my degree certificate, my job entailed no executive authority what ever, I was there to do as I was told, mostly by the nursing staff. Towering high above me were the gods in my pantheon, Professor Sir Paul Bramley, scholar, gentleman and an inspiration; the irascible Ronnie Rastall, exceedingly skillful hands but a devil if you were on the end of a bollocking and John Edgar deBurgh Norman, brilliant, aloof and eccentric – black cloaks with scarlet linings were not fashionable even in those remote times.

J E deB was Australian and subsequently returned home and practised as an Oral & Maxillofacial Surgeon in Sydney whilst I did likewise in Melbourne. Subsequently our paths crossed only once, at a conference at which I was in the chair. Even though I was dry behind the ears by then I couldn’t summon up the confidence to remind him that we had once worked together (or that he had once resuscitated a patient who had collapsed whilst in my tender care).

Back to the present and there on the shelf …

They just don’t make names like that any more. In fact, where I come from they never did. It had to be. And indeed it was. Not only is the man distinguished in his own right he is pearling nobility, a scion of one of Broome’s founding families. G V Norman is Verity, his wife now, sadly, dead.

What were the odds?

Interesting book, by the way.

Subtitles …

I try to keep up with events in Ukraine where the people have displayed remarkable resilience. Slava Ukraini.

I was surprised (again) this morning …

I’m sorry I’ll read that again, “Ukrainian forces keep up the pressure along the Dniepro …” Automatically generated subtitles can do for a speaker what my spell checker does for me when I’m writing.

Weather …

T’is nobler to stay in bed.

It arrived last night and a tropical downpour has been drumming on the roof ever since, a soothing and hypnotic sound. Tourists were not expecting this in the dry season. Caravan parks are overflowing – just like the gutters. By road Broome is a long way from anywhere else. City dwellers may be challenged by the notion that roads will be flooded and impassable.

The Gibb River Road winds through the remote KImberley region. If you take it easy in fine weather your 4WD will get you through, with skill and care your caravan may even survive and you can pick the contents of the cupboards up off the floor when you reach your destination. If anything goes wrong you are a long way from assistance.

This gem was posted on Facebook this morning …

“During the GRR closure, are we still able to use the road to leave? We’re currently at Drysdale River Station and urgently need to get to Derby to get our fridge fixed 🙄 “

… and pray that there’s intelligent life somewhere out in space – everybody knows you can’t get a fridge repaired in Derby!

Broome Time …

The monsoonal parts of Australia have simplified the calendar to just two seasons but that is nothing compared with what Broome has done to the clock.

Ask a tradesman when he can come and fix something, measure up, give you a quote, whatever. He’ll tell you next week, maybe. If you eventually get a quote you ask him when he can start. He tells you next week, maybe. If he starts its likely that he will disappear for a while. You ring him up and ask when he might finish. He tells you next week, maybe.

If you complain about it to a friend they are are likely to nod wisely and say Broome time.

Broome time is very similar to the Spanish concept mañana but without the urgency.

S’rainin …

But it’s the dry!

I woke this morning to the sound of a gentle rain. It is the first time I’ve heard it since moving to Broome about six weeks ago. So in my limited experience this is unusual. The recent settlers of tropical Oz have dispensed with spring and autumn as far to subtle to detect. Impressed by the big changes we have ended up with just two seasons, the wet – November to April and the dry – May to October.

The people who have lived here for millennia had more to consider than whether the roads were passable or impassible. They had six seasons summed up by the school children of Ardyaloon thus …

So currently it is Barragana and yes, I have heard people complain about the cold (mean daily maximum 29.3°C, mean overnight minimum 15.2°C).

How rare is rain in June? The average is in fact 18.2mm. It doesn’t seem likely that we will break any records. The wettest June on record was in 1968 at 208.1mm.

There were clouds in the sky last night.

A Change of Wallaby …

When living in country Victoria I saw Eastern Grey Kangaroos and Swamp Wallabies almost every day. The thrill never seems to wear off. Now living in town in Broome the common macropod is the Agile Wallaby and I’m not likely to see one on my front lawn. They are smaller than their Victorian cousins and abundant when you get out into the countryside.

Boys are bigger than girls, body length 85cm versus 72, 27kg versus 15 when fully grown. Their tails are long and flexible doubling their length overall. As is typical of kangaroos reproduction is very efficient. There may be a joey in and out of the pouch, another small baby in the pouch fastened to a teet and a fertilised egg in a state of suspended development waiting for lactation to cease – a condition known as diapause.

Agile Wallaby distribution.

They are the commonest macropod in their range and they have been successful over a very long time period. Their fossils have been found from Pliocene deposits in Chinchilla, Qld – that’s four million years ago. They were slightly larger back then but otherwise identical. Their future is secure in Oz but, like everything that moves, they are hunted mercilessly for bush meat in New Guinea.

Cygnet Bay …

Yeah, I missed you too. We went away for a few days.

William Dampier and the crew of the Cygnet were the first Englishmen ashore in Australia in 1688. The ship was beached for urgently needed repairs. They spent two months in Cygnet Bay near the tip of what became Dampier Peninsula and enjoyed good relations with the local people.

On his return to England Dampier wrote a very successful account of his travels which earnt him the opportunity to visit Oz as leader of a scientific expedition in 1699. This time as master of the Roebuck, which unfortunately was falling apart underneath him. The expedition spent three months charting 1400 km of coast from Shark Bay to Broome before heading home with meticulous notes and important biological specimens.

The Roebuck sank at Ascension Island on the way back to England but the crew, the notes and the specimens escaped intact. Dampier is described by the National Museum of Australia website as “explorer, naturalist, author, hydrographer and pirate.” He was the first to circumnavigate the globe three times.

In 1960 a pearl farm was established at Cygnet Bay by Lyndon Brown a second generation pearler and the first non-Japanese to penetrate the well guarded mystery of culturing pearls using the Pinctada maxima, an oyster famous for its huge size and the lustre of its shell and its pearls. Visitors can tour the farm, visit the shop, stay in diverse types of accommodation, swim in the pool, eat at the restaurant and go bird watching if that takes their fancy. It is a place of great beauty.

Just up the road is the aboriginal settlement of Ardyaloon. You need a permit to visit but this is no big deal, they are available for purchase at the Gallery on the way into town. It entitles you to visit the hatchery, very interesting, and the beaches. It, too, is a place of great beauty.

On our last night at Cygnet Bay I ventured down to the beach to take in the Milky Way before the waning crescent moon had a chance to climb above the horizon. The lights of Ardyaloon were visible in the distance. Click on any of the pictures for a better look – especially this one!

A romantic footnote … some years ago I took Gayle to the Willie Creek Pearl Farm on her birthday and bought her a cold drink and an ice-cream.

Town Beach …

If Cable Beach is Cinderella then poor old Town Beach was one of the ugly sisters. But, she’s had some plastic surgery – nice gardens, a performance space and a new pier. All this has happened in the last couple of years. It has transformed her into a great place to have a market, a concert or to sit and watch the moon come up.

I was there before dawn this morning …