Airport to Airport to …

Brisbane
Brisbane

Tokyo has two airports. Qantas flies into Narita, my first task was to get to Haneda.

Narita is 77 km east of central Tokyo. Haneda is 29 km south. From one to the other around the shores of Tokyo Bay is 80 km. I must confess to a little anxiety. Here I am dealing with an unfamiliar system in a language that I could not speak in my new role as an illiterate. Routine public transport is available but handling luggage for a three week trip on the train would be challenging. The easy way is the Limousine Bus.

When you are disgorged from the immigration and customs area the Limousine Bus counter is ahead, close and visible. The staff spoke good English and were very clear in their instruction to where you caught the bus. At the stop I was politely marshalled, put on the right bus, my luggage was loaded and off we went. Announcements are in Japanese and English, they are recorded and therefore intelligible. Anxiety dispelled.

The first two nights were at the Haneda Excel Tokyu Hotel in Terminal 2. As international drab as big hotels are, the national flavour will find a way to shine through. The Excel is the archetype airport hotel but …

The door was opened, two men bowed then indicated the direction to the reception desk, I was relieved of my luggage and checked in. It was a luxurious welcome. The bags were delivered to my room promptly and in Japan no tip is expected.

Haneda
Haneda

 

A Little Geography …

Our Google globe has been placed north up with Australia at the bottom, Japan at the top.

Globe 1

Japan is part of a great archipelago that hangs off the Kamchatka peninsula and curves away to the east of the main landmass of Asia, swings away around the north of Australia and then down to New Zealand.

If we superimpose the relevant part of the Great Ring of Fire on the map we can then deduce a great deal about the underlying geology.

Ring of Fire

The Japanese part of that great archilelago consists of almost 8,000 islands between latitudes 24°N and 46°N, and longitudes 122°E and 146°E. That’s 2600 km from Okinawa to the tip of Hokkaido. The four largest islands are Honshu, Hokkaido, Kyushu and Shikoku and together they make up about 97% of the land area.

Japan is mountainous, only 27% of the country is suitable for agriculture and urban settlement. It is prone to volcanic eruptions, earthquakes and tsunamis. There are more than a hundred active volcanoes. More than 140,000 people died in the Tokyo earthquake of 1923. The 2011 magnitude 9.0 earthquake off the Pacific coast of Tōhoku killed about 18,000 people and triggered several nuclear accidents.

From a natural disaster point of view Japan is the most dangerous place in the developed world.

Japan Islands

Looking from China, Japan lies in the direction of the rising sun, hence the way Japan is rendered in Kanji is 日本. The Chinese character 日 means sun or day; means base or origin, combined they convey the meaning sunrise.

The population is about 126 million people and slowly declining. The population density is high in the areas suitable for settlement.

Japan has the third largest economy in the world, but things aren’t quite as great as they used to be.

Life expectancy ranks second in the world. The infant mortality rate of 2 per thousand live births is as low as any where in the world. Educational standards are high.

Virtually no one shoots anyone else in Japan but they make up for that to some extent by killing themselves. Suicide is the leading cause of death in people under thirty.

The whole place is in one time zone (GMT +9hrs) and they don’t mess with the clocks for summertime.

The electricity supply is 100 volts (not 120 like the US or 240 like Australia and the UK) the plugs and sockets are 2 pin connections compatible with their American counterparts.

The climate is officially described as temperate. What this means is that it’s mild in the south. Tokyo is hot and humid in summer and cold in the winter, not a threat to your ears and nose but remember the hat and gloves. Hokkaido is mild in the summer and definitely a threat to the extremities in winter, don’t leave home without your parka.

Wildlife has done well in Japan, bears, deer, voles, shrews, deer, mustelids and monkeys can all be found and the bird life is exceptional. The mountains have helped preserve habitat and modern Japan seems conservation minded. There are well managed wildlife reserves. And surprisingly it is a good place to go whale watching!

The birding is heavily influenced by the strong seasonality and the proximity to land north and south and there is always the chance of vagrants coming from the Asian mainland.

The only English language field guide worth having (for the moment) is … A Field Guide to the Birds of East Asia (2009), by Mark Brazil.

Got all that? Cool. It’s time to go.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A Day Around Brisbane …

I had some time spare in Brisbane, rented a car and headed out with the binoculars.

Birds Queensland and the Brisbane City Council have produced a very useful little brochure of good birding spots which can be down loaded <HERE>.

I headed north and spent most of my time in the vicinity of Nudgee Beach and Boondall Wetlands then headed west to the Gap and Enoggera Reservoir.

GyBB

LaKo

A productive day and I even found out which way to head for my next stop …

Japan

On the Wallaby …

If you are going to write about travel then from time to time you have to travel.

And since I’m not a great multitasker I shall travel first and write after.

See you when I get back from Japan.

Not a lot of wallabies in Japan, you say … it’s Aussie slang,the first use in this context (that I can find) dates to 1849. It means to journey from place to place. In 1891 Henry Lawson gave us this …

Australia’s a big country

An’ Freedom’s humping bluey,

An’ Freedom’s on the wallaby

Oh! don’t you hear ‘er cooey?

The New Camera …

I’ve had it for two days now and I seem to be getting the hang of it …

Golden-headed Cisticola
Golden-headed Cisticola

I am in Melbourne for a few days so the first morning I headed to Ricketts Point on Port Phillip Bay, one of my favorite spots. A lot of birds roost on the rocks but you do need to get there early because a crowd will build up. I was there early … and the first thing to try was birds in flight in low light. Why start with a bowl of fruit?

P1010092

It passed that test reasonably well.

As the light improved some colour crept into the show.

P1010308

P1010305

P1010469

By which time it was time for a coffee from the tea house.

The next morning I was at Braeside Park, another favorite place. That’s where I found the cisticola at the top. I also found this Grey Butcherbird

Grey Butcherbird

and a Grey Teal looking into the morning sun.

Grey Teal

As the sun climbed higher I moved into the shade and found this little jewel, a Spotted Pardalote.

P1010488

So the camera? A Lumix GH4. Early impressions are extremely favorable. It will get quite a work out in the next few weeks after that I will write a review.

Mining the Archives …

For a long time I have been promising myself that I would get my photos into some sort of order.

So far I have found photos on four different computers, three generations of Mac and a PC. None of the external hard drives lying around would actually do business with all of them. I ended up clearing the oldest Mac with a USB stick, not the nice new one with heaps of storage but an old one that would cope with just 200 files at a time. I still have to find some more photos. One other Mac was stolen some years ago, that’s a collection of photos that I won’t be seeing again and but there is hope that some others are filed away on cd somewhere. Must sort them out while I still have a means of reading cd’s. Anyway most of the digital era is now assembled in one place … must back it up!

Because of some problems with my Olympus camera I’ve also had reason to sort through and put back into use some old camera gear. Reviewing my old photos and being forced to think about my photography has been a most instructive revision course. I got the brand new camera yesterday but before I start showing off what it can do lets see what went before.

Wildlife and landscapes it’s what I do …

Antarctica 2005
Antarctica 2005

 

Antarctic Petrel
Antarctic Petrel

 

Eureka Sound 2008
Eureka Sound 2008

 

Polar Bear
Polar Bear

 

Ellesmere Island 2008
Ellesmere Island 2008

 

Galapagos 2007
Galapagos 2007

 

Great Frigatebird
Great Frigatebird

 

New Zealand 2008
New Zealand 2008

 

New Zealand 2008
New Zealand 2008

Mark my words …

For just about everything that Mark Twain is said to have said there is a Twain scholar to say he didn’t say it. For instance that thing about golf being the opiate of the masses, he never said that.

Not far from me is the Maryborough railway station which Twain thought so grand that he said “Maryborough, a station with a town attached”. It’s pretty certain that’s another of the things he didn’t say but he did say this …

Don’t you overlook that Maryborough station, if you take an interest in governmental curiosities. Why, you can put the whole population of Maryborough into it, and give them a sofa apiece, and have room for more.

He visited the town in 1895 during a year long world tour at a time when he was deeply in debt in the US. It invites comparisons with our own Clive Palmer, up to his eyes in debt and living it up. However Twain’s was a lecture tour intended to raise the funds to repay his debts. Which to his enormous credit he did, despite the fact that he was protected by the bankruptcy laws and could have walked away from them. So no comparison after all.

The station is a bit of a curiosity. It’s part of popular local mythology that it was actually meant to be built elsewhere. There is a Maryborough in Queensland which still causes confusion. I’ve also been told with all apparent seriousness that Madras has a little station and Maryborough a huge one because the plans were accidentally switched. In reality it was erected just as intended, just where intended at a very important intersection of various country rail lines.

It was begun in 1890, completed in 1891. Passenger services stopped in 1993 but resumed in 2010. I took my camera along recently when an old diesel locomotive brought a train full of enthusiasts to town …

M S F

MBSP

M S Pl

Loco

Rain …

It has been a dry old time in Victoria’s Goldfields. The wettest day last year was on January 18th when we were deluged with 49mm (2 inches). We had had 21mm nine days earlier. Since then it seemed to have forgotten how to rain. My neighbours are hand feeding sheep and, unless they have a good bore, are carting water every day to keep their stock alive. It’s hard work at the hottest time of the year. Australia is, and always has been, a tough place when el Niño comes to visit.

Bare paddock

But there are wetter parts. The hills east of Melbourne are clothed in tall forest and in the gullies there are pockets of  genuine rainforest. Some cooler weather was forecast so what better time to visit. A few showers? Well, that would reduce the risk of bush fire. Fifty millimetres, could be uncomfortable in the tent.

I arrived in Australia in August many Augusts ago. I bought a sporty Mazda car with a rotary engine and I was keen to try it out. The ski season was in full swing, snow in Australia, not what I was expecting, must take a look. I took a long spin up the highway to just beyond Mansfield where the snow capped summit of Mount Buller could be seen. Wow. Where to now? I might add at this point, that in England, I had never had the opportunity to drive on a gravel road.

I consulted my brand new map of Victoria and found a road down the east side of Lake Eildon, through Jamieson, the A1 Mine Settlement, Woods Point and on to Marysville. From there it’s a shortish trip to the eastern suburbs of Melbourne. More interesting to make it a round trip, I thought, and set off.

The bitumen ran out. It was raining. It was getting late in the afternoon. It can’t be all that far, I thought.

Soon it was dark, the wind was howling, the rain was lashing down. I was traveling very slowly on a loose stony road that divided its time between climbing and descending steep hills and sharing  the valley bottom with a rapidly swelling river. The car was second hand, I hadn’t even checked whether I had a jack or a spare tyre. My way forward might be blocked by a fallen tree or the river in flood. So might my way back if I turned around. My heart was in my mouth. Jamieson to Marysville is 136 km (85 miles). Along the way a Wombat the size of a sheep wandered out into the road and stood looking at me. It could have been asking itself, “What the hell is he doing here?” Which is exactly what I was asking myself.

So there I was, a few days ago, camped at Woods Point, next to the Goulburn River, in the pouring rain. On the way there I had stopped to photograph the Noojee Trestle Bridge. A number of these fine old rail bridges survive, I find them very interesting …

Noojee Trestle

You can see that the area is much lusher than my neck of the woods, there’s even grass.

And tall trees …

Woods Point

it has crossed my mind that given my girth, if I was a tree I would be about a hundred metres tall.

Meanwhile, outside my tent, a very damp Flame Robin was playing in the puddles.

Wet Flame Robin

The next morning there was nothing more than light showers. A short walk turned up some wreckage …

Old truck cabin

for a moment I thought it was my Mazda.

I added 20 more bird species to my year list, enjoyed recounting my first trip down this road and enjoyed the ride in my FJ Cruiser, too easy.

When I got home there was a very welcome 21mm in the rain gauge. May have to service the mower soon.

Echidna …

Echidna 1

They are found throughout Australia and you often come across them as they amble down the side of the road, the Short-beaked Echidna Tachyglossus aculeatus. I encountered this one last evening just outside my front gate. They can be active at any time of the day or night but when the weather is very hot they are more likely to be out and about in the cooler hours.

The moment they are disturbed they dig and very quickly they are a half buried ball of sharp prickles. To get these photographs I approached as quietly as I could then sat and waited until it got the confidence to move about.

They are mammals, they have a single lower jaw bone, hair, suckle their young on milk and maintain a warm body temperature. The class mammalia can be divided into three broad groups, monotremes, marsupials and the eutherians (often called placental mammals but some marsupials have a placenta). The echidna is a monotreme. It lays a single egg which it then carries around in a pouch. Yes, some marsupials have a placenta and some monotremes have a pouch, how confusing. When the egg hatches the baby stays in the pouch for about 50 more days.

Echidna 2

That long specialised snout has no teeth but the echidna is equipped with a long sticky tongue with which to catch ants, termites, beetle larvae and other soil invertebrates. Sharp claws serve not only to dig but also to tear apart rotting wood to get at the insects within. In light soils it often leaves a series of holes that indicate where it has been probing.

Echidna 3

They are usually encountered on their own but in the mating period (June – September) a train of hopeful males may be found following a single female.

There are three other echidnas living in New Guinea, all in a different genus, Zaglossus. Aboriginal rock art depicts a larger, longer beaked echidna that probably died out here about 5,000 years ago. According to David Andrew a museum specimen exists that was supposedly collected in the Kimberley in the early 20th century, so there is some very faint hope for the Long-beaked Echidna in Oz although the habitat in the Kimberley is very different from the New Guinea higher forests where Zaglossus bruijni lives mainly on earthworms.

The only other monotreme is the Platypus.