Northern Territory

Borroloola …

I’m looking out at the fading orange predawn glow, under a mackerel sky. It’s pleasantly warm. I am but a speck in the universe. Borroloola … We’ll be on our way in a couple of hours to Hell’s Gate via Robinson River. Still on National Highway 1 but the next section is unsealed and from what we’ve heard quite exciting.

The road here from Daly Waters was easily managed. It’s in the process of becoming splendid and while that’s happening its 390 km of two lane highway, one lane highway and kilometre after kilometre of dirt sidetrack. You reach the McArthur River mine about 70 km from Borroloola. The road is good from there on. The mine is owned by Glencore. Lead and Zinc ore goes from there to Bing Bong on the Gulf of Carpentaria by quad road train hence the good road. There is a lookout tower at Bing Bong. You can see the loading facility, there is otherwise nothing for the tourist, no shops, no accommodation. About 5 km of stony track away is Mule Creek where you can launch a tinny or fish from the bank (watching out for crocodiles, of course.)

Borroloola has a population of about 800, 75% are aboriginal, the Yanyuwa people. There is a school, a couple of fuel outlets and stores. The caravan park is pleasant, good facilities including a shop and a swimming pool and very friendly management. There are a couple of boat ramps for people wanting to fish the McArthur River. It once had a remarkable library, a story in itself – see wikipedia.

King Ash bay is an alternative camp site. Very suitable for the fishermen and women.

Before leaving Broome and after updating the Calendar Game score I added White-browed Crake to the year’s tally so left Broome on 330. The banks of the McArthur River yielded two more species, the Lemon-bellied Flyrobin and the Buff-sided Robin. The count down to 365 is on. I also had success with Crimson Finch in the Pandanus. Not far from town I found an Australian Bustard.

Manbulloo to Daly Waters …

285 km, sealed road. Via Katherine, a real town with a supermarket and everything. Population about 6000. And a change of explorer. It has been Gregory for the last few days. Now it’s time to tip the hat to John McDouall Stuart.

Daly Waters is a pub with a campground attached. At lunch time it has a population of about 55, by tea time that’s 555. Stuart conferred the name on a chain of springs that he found on his third attempt to reach the north coast, 1861–62. The overland telegraph arrived in 1872. The town was founded in 1927. The pub got its license in 1938. There is a WWll airstrip. At the moment it seems like one of the worst places I have ever stayed. It may seem better after a few beers.

And it did.

The pizza was good too. Donkeys, horses and goats wandered among the crowd outside the pub. With them came the Apostlebirds, Gayle’s favourite bird. We have been in the territory since a little west of Katherine but this is our first contact this trip. They are bold, aggressive, hissy and unloveable. They come in groups, I hesitate to say by the dozen. If you are unwise enough to catch one the remainder attack.

The last few days we have been on the country traversed by the extraordinary Kimberley pioneers, the Duracks. Patsy and Michael drove a good sized mob of cattle and horses, leaving Thylungra, Queensland, in 1879. Nearly three years and 4,800 km later they arrived in WA where Lake Argyle has now been created. Their homestead was taken down stone by stone and rebuilt on high ground before the lake filled.

Manbulloo …

Manbulloo Homestead has good natural values, a shady campsite and good facilities. A track takes you to the Katherine River. You can pat the goats, play with the donkey and watch the cows being fed. They have a couple of Turkeys, that I hope will survive Christmas, named Camilla and Charles. Sweet.

Northern parts of Australia are steeped in WWll history. Broome and Darwin were subjected to Japanese air raids. There is a memorial to the Nackeroos, essentially lookouts trained for geurrilla resistance, on the escarpment above Timber Creek. WWll airstrips dot the countryside. And Manbulloo has its own small share commemorated on an information board.

There is a military tale concerning Chinese Whispers run amok that has the punchline “Send three and fourpence we’re going to a dance”. Apocryphal I was certain … until I saw this photograph showing a squad rehearsing its dance moves with the choreographer out front.

I know, wrong war. The earliest version seems to have been published in 1914 under the title “Altered in Transit” in the “Temperance Caterer” periodical of London and various similar variations followed. Credit Quote Investigator for that bit of intelligence.

Torresian Imperial Pigeons and Yellow Orioles were calling during the day. Bush Stone-curlews were wailing during the night but the only bird lining up for a photograph was the Radjah Shelduck.

Wyndham to Katherine …

Over two days. First night Timber Creek. 327 km, all sealed. Population 278 slightly more than half are Aboriginal. Augustus Charles Gregory and a party explored the area in 1855 and bestowed the name Timber Creek on one of the creeks. That was adopted for the name of the settlement when the opening of a police station put the “town” on the European map in 1898.

Gregory’s party included Baron Sir Ferdinand Jacob Heinrich von Mueller, a bit of a botanist. Well perhaps the most important of Australia’s pioneering botanists. It was he that described and named Adansonia gregorii, the Boab. (And for one of my faithful readers it was he that described and named the genus Macadamia.)

The camp ground is behind the well-stocked store. There is a swimming pool, a creek at the bottom of the garden and plenty of shady trees. There are freshwater crocodiles in the creek and a large Flying Fox camp overhanging the creek.

The camp ground, the airstrip, the race course and Policeman’s Point on the Victoria River are well known birding spots. The airstrip can be very productive but alas fire had been through and for the time being it will be quiet.

Timber Creek to Katherine is 289 km, all sealed. We are camped at Manbulloo (the local aboriginal name of the Crested Pigeon) about 10 km short of Katherine, on the bank of the Katherine River. The campsite is well shaded which is much appreciated as the temperature hits 37°C (98.6°F).

A Road Trip …

Yes, I feel the need for a road trip. Seems like ages since I finished the last one (goodness, is it 6 months already?). Sit here much longer and I’ll take root. Origin Broome, WA, destination Broome. Pick somewhere in between, say Port Fairy, Vic. We like Port Fairy and summers are coolish there. A loop then. How big a loop? Let’s go for the max. Anywhere special on the way?

The classic Highway 1 loop covers roughly 15,000 km (9,400mi). This is Australia, there will be any number of special places on the way, unavoidably. But there is one place the lovely Gayle and I have not visited. It’s been on proposed itineraries but the weather has denied us every time. In this dry, dry continent nothing stops outback traffic faster than rain. Borroloola, NT, population 755. Setting off towards the end of the dry we have a fairly good chance of making it this time. It’s not flooded at the moment. An early start to the wet, though, could soon fix that!

That determines the direction of travel. It will be clockwise again this time. The journey breaks down into four major legs. The journey across the top, Broome to Cairns, is the Savannah Way. It can be completed on sealed road but there are a couple of alternate sections. If Borroloola is included then it would be remiss not to include Hell’s Gate and then Burketown, 365km of corrugated suffering. Tape your beer cans so they don’t rub through. It gets easier from there to Normanton. At that point you choose to take the Burke Development Road via Chillagoe, once again shaking your teeth out of their sockets or the bitumen via Croydon. We’ve traveled both before and unless overtaken by a bout of masochism I suspect we will opt for the latter (and a soak in the Innot hot springs).

Before dropping into Cairns we will pause on the Atherton Tableland, our first opportunity for a flurry of new (for the year) birds. Then up to Cooktown.

The next leg is the east coast, but all in good time. First you will need to endure heart wrenching bulletins of the trip to Hells Gate.

Darwin …

Having succumbed to the temptation of Pine Creek what’s another 200km? And when it comes to additions to the year’s tally of birds Darwin has a few absolute gimmes.

Darwin is the capital and most populous city of the Northern Territory but still a modest sized town of about 140,000 people. Charles Darwin visited Australia on the Beagle in 1836. In a subsequent voyage (1839) the Beagle visited what would become Darwin. Captain John Wickham named Port Darwin after Charles Darwin long before he became famous. On the origin of species was published in 1859. The name of the city followed in 1911.

I believe Mark Twain made a visit to Darwin and I have read that Charles Darwin was fond of Twain’s writings for bed time reading.

The Overland Telegraph and Pine Creek had a lot to do with Darwin getting off the ground. The telegraph had to reach the coast somewhere. In 1872 gold was discovered in Pine Creek and that somewhere suddenly welcomed a major influx of people.

I have visited Darwin quite a few times and have a well worn track around the birding spots. This is the first time I’ve brought a dog with me and sadly half my regular places do not allow dogs. Add to that the persistence of the wet season and a few changes had to be made to the routine. The first afternoon saw a storm deliver 35mm of rain in about 20 minutes followed by another 25mm over night. Nonetheless the list was made to grow and a few nice photos have followed over the last few days.

Now we must head for home. Cyclone Errol may or may not complicate the journey to Broome. Predictions vary so greatly they are to all intents and purposes useless. We shall find out.

Pine Creek …

From Tennant Creek we headed north. We spent a night at Mataranka to soak in the hot springs. Hot springs were closed due to flooding. No soak. Shopping in Katherine then a diversion … to Darwin. We stopped two nights en route at Pine Creek.

Pine Creek owes its existence to gold. It’s now a very pleasant stopping point for the traveler heading to Darwin. For the birdo it has the special sauce, Hooded Parrot. These are savanna woodland dwellers restricted to a small part of the Northern Territory. They have declined in much of their range but are secure in protected areas and are not hard to find around Pine Creek. They nest in termite mounds. The boys are far better looking than the girls.

For the aficionado (should that be afflictionado?) Pine Creek also has a very fine sewage treatment plant. Pine Creek is a place where the twitcher can listen to the Yellow Oriole by day (a mellow al ca hol) and the Barking Owl by night (wook wook) and run around wildly with the camera. Paradise.

Friends …

Flies can be a problem in Australia, always have been in fact. During the Sydney Test of 1932, the infamous bodyline series (I’m talking cricket for readers in particularly foreign countries) the supercilious Pommy captain was trying to drive away the flies when an Aussie fan nicknamed Yabber called out from the hill “Leave our flies alone, Jardine. They’re the only friends you’ve got …”

In the last few days we’ve driven from Coober Pedy to Tennant Creek crossing the South Australia, Northern Territory border and then the Tropic of Capricorn (not guarded by a goat this time).

And friends we’ve had in abundance. Open the car door and in they flood. In complete contradiction to the principles of osmosis they quickly reach a density of one fly per cubic centimetre inside whilst outside there are probably no more than one per litre. Clearly there is some attractive force in play. I suspect it’s the accumulated residue of a thousand dog farts, or perhaps it’s simply because I haven’t showered lately.

The remedy is to roar off with all windows open. This quickly gets rid of the dumb ones. The smart ones hide in corners until the windows are closed before coming out to invade your nose, your mouth or, their favorite, the corners of your eyes. Under your sunglasses where they can safely ignore your hand swishing past. You chase them around until they land on the window, quickly open it, and with luck out they go. Or they disappear into the back of the car. Initially a few at a time then one by one you win the battle. By about 200km you think you’ve done it. Just in time to change drivers for which you must open the doors.

We’ve camped at a couple of spots along the way and tonight we are tucked away in the spinifex just outside Tennant Creek. This morning we found a trio of Letter-winged Kites, a tick for Gayle and this afternoon we encountered some Spinifex pigeons. And I’ve had some success with the camera.

We came through Alice Springs. We had no need to stop. Rain has closed a lot of the minor roads around Alice and the country side from then on was extraordinarily green. There were small flocks of Budgerigars passing all day. With so much water about they will soon be big flocks.

We are still following the line of the Overland Telegraph. News from the rest of the world reached Australia by under sea cable to Darwin and then by telegraph to Adelaide. It was completed in 1872 and served its purpose until the 1970’s. We paused at the Barrow Creek Telegraph Station today, one of only four that are still intact.

Tomorrow the road trip will pass the 20,000km mark and we will rejoin our outward track. The year’s bird list stands at 288.

Day 3 …

Manbulloo to Barkly Homestead 865km.

Cyclone Sean is boiling the waters south west of Broome, the Victoria Highway is under water behind us (150mm of rain in 24 hours). There is no retreat! For the moment though there is no need to retreat. Today has been blue sky all day. It seems churlish to complain about the heat … a mere 41ºC (105.8ºF). Just enough to dry out the tent. We are about half way to the east coast.

Day 3 in our lexicon has a specific meaning. Gayle and I have done many a road trip and on the odd occasion harsh words have been spoken. After a while it dawned on us that mostly that would be on day three. We can have a day 3 on day 2 or on day 4 or any day on the journey really.

Barkly Homestead is a pleasant road house in the middle of absolutely nowhere. The surrounding country is a beautiful green at the moment but it won’t be in the dry. There is a bar. Gayle and I are off to have a beer. So far no harsh words but she does get violent after a few drinks. Wish me luck.

One More River …

Kununurra to Manbulloo Homestead – 481km.

It was the Croc Motel in Kununurra that was pet friendly. It was also clean and comfortable although there was a faint aroma of damp. The units are arranged around a courtyard where someone is doing much better with their Heliconias and ferns than I am in Broome.

Given that today would be somewhat shorter we took time to go birding in the Celebrity Tree Park on the banks of Lake Kununurra. Very enjoyable. Best bird goes to Comb-crested Jacana with Tawny Frogmouth a close second.

Then onward ever onward. Still Highway 1 but now called the Victoria Highway. That part of the Great Northern that we traversed yesterday and the Victorian together form part of the Savannah Way – I think we are overdoing the names here. But, anyway a new day, a new state, a new time zone and a new speed limit. Northern Territory, clocks forward one and a half hours (yes, Central Australian time is a bit weird. I haven’t encountered anything but whole hour shifts any where else.) and the beast could now be unleashed at 130kph (80mph) if you dared on a narrow, wet, flood affected surface.

The rain began around lunch time and continued on and off for the rest of the day. There were waterfalls coming off the escarpments in fairly spectacular fashion and the rivers were up. Plenty of water about.

Two important rivers are behind us now, the Fitzroy on day one and the Victoria today. In recent years both of these have flooded causing delays that lasted weeks. It’s good to have seen them in the rear view mirror.

Manbulloo Homestead is on the Katherine River and the birding is good. Tomorrow is a big day, long way to go, so there will be little time to enjoy it here. Must come back.

All is set for a classic day three tomorrow.